4 floor designs ROTA repaint

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Re:4 floor designs ROTA repaint

Post by DM-GHOST » Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:00 am

I think ilost my jaw when it bounced off the floor just now !

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Re:4 floor designs ROTA repaint

Post by Dwarf » Sat Oct 22, 2011 5:04 pm

Actually, I don't think you are applying it wrong. I just believe that you have to add a bit more water than the usual paints (either the games workshop ones or any other). While normal acrylic paints are already quite 'watery', the foundation colors are way more 'solid' and thus require a lot more water than usual. My favourite saying is that the paint is thinned down correctly if you got the consistency of milk. Furthermore you need to add more water while in the process of painting since as you remarked, they dry out quickly.
Those particles don't show up if you this mixing on a small tray (as opposed to those that do it inside the painting pot). Maybe you might want to try out the trick of Team germany, some pro painters who use a wet tray by immolating blotting paper in water and then mixing the paint on it with water. Since the paints stay wet (through the wet blotting paper) you will be able to conserve any paint (especially for certain paint mixtures you need) for longer periods of time since it draws the humidity from the paper. This procedure needs some experimenting first though, to find the right amount of water.

- Dwarf

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Re:4 floor designs ROTA repaint

Post by biowizard » Sat Oct 22, 2011 4:39 pm

Hi Dwarf and Thanks for the praises!!!

I like Games Workshop's products a lot (as they are THE reference for miniatures gaming) but I unfortunately tried a few colors of the "Foundation" series of Citadel paint in hope it would help get around the hassle of needing white undercoats for light colors. Unfortunately, in my hands, this product did not live up to my expectations... First off, there are clumps of solid particles in the paint that show up as little bumps in the final paint job. Then, I believe the special smelly solvent in there makes the paint dry so fast that you can hardly apply the paint anywhere before your brush dries off. But then again, I might be using this product wrong.

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Re:4 floor designs ROTA repaint

Post by Dwarf » Sat Oct 22, 2011 2:59 pm

I have to agree on what Biowizard said concerning painting! Light colors tend to let the undercoat shine through.
Alas, there is a new kind of colour type from Games Workshop called Foundation Paints, which have more colour pigments in them. This makes those colours (especially the light ones) cover the underground colour way better, even in one coating. What's more, you can mix them with regular acrylic paints and give those a bit more 'power'. 18 different foundation paints are available. If you try them out, please let me know what you think of them.
What's more, when painting try not to paint with the tip of the brush, but with the whole length by dragging the brush towards you and with the tip away from you. And don't let the colour reach the 'roots' of your bristles, rather than only up to four quarters. You will achieve the best results if you clean up the brush regularly even while painting to make sure all paint has left the brush.
I am sorry to have 'interrupted' this discussion, but since this is part of my job (painting miniatures, not interrupting), I thought I might put in my 50 cent.

- Dwarf

P.S. Really nice job on those RotA pieces Biowizard.

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Re:4 floor designs ROTA repaint

Post by biowizard » Sat Oct 22, 2011 1:14 pm

...ooh, I forgot to say something about dry brushing!

The tiles originally coming with the ROTA sets are quite dark already! For my ROTA repaint, since I did not want the color between the tiles to change (to match the "mortar" from the tiles I would not repaint) and since I wanted to use very light and bright colors, I had to do a white dry brushing over all the 3 primary colors pieces before painting the final colors over it. This is because light colors (light blue, light green, yellow and so on...) let a lot of the color underneath go through. There is no way around it, these are laws of physics that apply unless you do 30 separate coats of them (I would strongly advise against that for that many tiles). Having a white undercoat makes the light colors appear much more vivid. For dry brushing, you need another brush that has no sharp end. Instead, it should have a roundish appearance with all bristles ending at different places. This is because after putting paint on the brush, you have to remove very nearly all of it by brushing very hard on a piece of newspaper or something similar. Without doing that, this would not be dry brushing and you would have white paint between tiles. Dry brushing with your paint brush with a well-defined sharp end definitely damages it beyond repair. Damaging your paint brush dedicated to dry brushing on the other hand is sometimes beneficial for its intended use... And don't forget a matt varnish coat (I personally hate gloss varnish unless I paint jewels) when you are done, to have your hard work protected from gaming use. Good Luck and patience!!!
Last edited by biowizard on Wed Feb 28, 2018 10:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re:4 floor designs ROTA repaint

Post by biowizard » Sat Oct 22, 2011 11:16 am

Hi Arcarius2001,

I guess you are asking that question because you are considering doing your own ROTA repaint. Here's my complete answer regarding such a project. In my opinion, one important thing that distinguishes a good miniatures painter from a very good miniature painter is realizing that the size of the brush does not really matter for making very small details. As an example, I own a size 000 brush, which is the smallest I could find. This was a very big and costly mistake!!! After dipping it in paint, the very small amount of paint that is actually held between the bristles dries in about 10-20 seconds which gives you no time to do any of the fine details you had in mind doing. A bigger brush such as a size 0.5 or 1 would hold enough paint to do about 10 ROTA tiles. But, the end of the brush has to be very sharp (not round or damaged)! Maintaining a brush so that the bristles end into a single sharp end is key for controlling where the paint actually goes. Make sure to never let you brush upright into any kind of container unless the bristles are up (not down)!

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Re:4 floor designs ROTA repaint

Post by Arcarius2001 » Sat Oct 22, 2011 1:44 am

What size brushes did you use for these? And did you need any kind of magnification to get the detail just right?

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Re:4 floor designs ROTA repaint

Post by erc1971 » Fri Oct 21, 2011 11:03 pm

Wow, that is amazing. Awesome job.

Eric

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Re:4 floor designs ROTA repaint

Post by dndgamer » Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:10 pm

Personally, I can't imagine the amount of patience such an endeavor takes to complete let alone the amount of time to make them look s great as they do!
--Semper Fidelis

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Re:4 floor designs ROTA repaint

Post by biowizard » Fri Oct 21, 2011 3:48 pm

Wow! I'm very very glad you all like them! Yes, painting them this way, one tile at a time takes a lot of time. As a scientist, I have a lot of patience, but I saw this exercise as a chance to meditate and forget about work for a time. I would say that it took me around 16 hours for each piece. I decided not to watch TV anymore and it then took me about one month. I would say that you do not need to be a professional painter to obtain such results, just invest the necessary time. I unfortunately won't take commissions as I prefer using my spare times to get more goodies for myself. Also at a minimum wage of 8$/hour, I don't think any of you would want to pay the $128+shipping+brand new 4*4 piece associated with such an endeavor. Maybe it would be a perfect task for the Sri Lankans (http://www.miniaturelovers.com/) or others?

For Tom, HQF, Lord & other french-speaking crowd: Wow! Je suis vraiment tres (je n'ai pas d'accents sur mon clavier americain) content que vous les aimiez! Oui, les peindre, une tuile de ceramique a la fois prend beaucoup de temps. En tant que scientifique, j'ai beaucoup de patience mais j'ai vu cet exercice comme une occasion pour mediter et ne plus penser au travail. Je dirais que cela m'a pris 16 heures de travail pour chaque piece. En decidant de ne plus regarder la tele, cela m'a pris environ 1 mois. Je dirais qu'il n'est pas vraiment necessaire de savoir bien peindre pour obtenir de tels resultats, il suffir d'y investir le temps necessaire. Je ne prends malheureusement pas de commissions puisque je prefere utiliser mes temps libres pour me fabriquer mes propres joujoux. Aussi, au salaire minimum de 8$ de l'heure, je ne pense pas qu'aucun d'entre vous ne veuille payer les 128$+couts d'envois+1 piece de 4*4. Mieux vaut sous-traiter a mon avis aux Sri Lankais (http://www.miniaturelovers.com/) ou autres!

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