Painting Guides

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Seraphis the Bland
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Re: Painting Guides

Post by Seraphis the Bland » Mon Jun 25, 2018 6:02 pm

Has anyone tried using that beautiful olive drybrush on the pillars instead of red?

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geekjeff
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Re: Painting Guides

Post by geekjeff » Tue Jun 19, 2018 2:10 pm

New thread here, with example pics!

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=9192

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Re: Painting Guides

Post by Gargs454 » Tue Jun 19, 2018 1:10 pm

geekjeff wrote:
Tue Jun 05, 2018 12:14 am
As for which paints to buy - the original Dungeon quartet for sure: Base Gray, Earth Stone, Olive Dry Brush, Stone Edge Dry Brush. Add to that Deep Lava for the pillars.
Other Pokorny paints you might consider: Base Wood for painting doors and some of the traps. Black and White, for tweaking shades of the other paint colors (white also for the knotwork, on the large Floors and Daises, although you could just use Stone Edge for those.) School Bus for highlights on the torches and the flame jets - although you're not going to need a ton of that, might be better off buying a small bottle of miniatures paint.

Which brings us to the big question: what to do about the metal bits? We don't have metallics available in the Pokorny line, because 8 ounce bottles of those are really only necessary if you're painting Tanks. For these, you should pick out a brand of quality minuatures paints carried by a local gaming or hobby store. Good brands to consider: Reaper, Vallejo, Games Workshop, P3. Stay away from cheap craft acrylics for detail work and especially for metallics - their metallics are crap. Chunky, look flat, and prone to flaking.

Quality model paints will only run you 3-4 bucks per pot or dropper bottle, and a little bit will go a long way. You'll need at least: 1 steel or gunmetal color, 1 antique gold color (as opposed to bright, shiny paladin gold.) You also might want something bronzy/coppery, but you can fake that with an antique gold and a tiny bit of brown/red.

When painting metallics, they pop better with a complimentary base color. Underpaint a light coat of black wherever you're going to use steel or silver colors, underpaint brown wherever you're going to paint gold or copper. I'm sure the real artists around here can tell you the color theory of why this works, I just know that it does work. :lol:
Thanks for the tips! One question I had for you, or anyone else who has gotten their paws on the "metal" bits already is will the metal parts need to be primed, or are they good to go like the rest of the dwarvenite? Not sure if the metal bits actually are metal, etc. Priming not a problem, I'm just curious.

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dice4hire
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Re: Painting Guides

Post by dice4hire » Mon Jun 18, 2018 3:10 am

Nice
A pretty decent Docent of Valoria

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Archimagus
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Re: Painting Guides

Post by Archimagus » Sun Jun 17, 2018 9:06 pm

Painting Tests.jpg
Painting Tests.jpg (118.5 KiB) Viewed 1132 times
Here are my painting tests on some KS1 pieces;
1. Factory Paint Job
2. Tutorial Paint Job (Base Grey, Earth Stone, Olive Dry Brush, Stone Edge Dry Brush
3. Base Grey, Earth Stone, Olive Dry Brush, Cavern Dry Brush
4. Earth Stone, Olive Dry Brush, Cavern Dry Brush

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Re: Painting Guides

Post by ShaynePatrick » Sat Jun 16, 2018 8:25 pm

geekjeff wrote:
Tue Jun 05, 2018 12:13 am
It is getting a bit down to the wire on painting guides, eh? I know they're planned but the team is also in the throes of Kickstarter production chaos. If nothing official is out by the time my stuff arrives, I'll throw together a little unofficial video with one of my unpainted sets.
Thanks, Jeff. What I really want, is a video on the Marble. Please.

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Re: Painting Guides

Post by Sfolivier » Sat Jun 16, 2018 4:18 pm

I don't think the colors are hard to match, especially after watching past videos from Dwarven Forge. For me, the biggest question is whether I'll start with "base grey" or go straight to dry brushing (after basing with lava / brown for some elements). I like the contrast / darker style without the base grey but every DF piece I painted before had it. It might be better to keep things consistent...

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geekjeff
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Re: Painting Guides

Post by geekjeff » Sat Jun 16, 2018 10:58 am

Haven’t had a chance to take a brush to any of mine yet, should be able to Sunday or Monday when I’m back in town.

I’d revise the earlier steps though, if you’re tying to match the factory paint job: I don’t think there is a gray base coat, there may just be a single drybrush layer of something close to Cavern Dry Brush (it’s definitely a little bit warmer color than Stone Edge.) The darker contrast on the arches and pillar heads/bases is from an undercoat of full on Black, which I supppose is easier than trying to keep drybrush off a tiny area. Pillars are definitely Deep Lava, I tested on a KS1 pillar and it’s a dead ringer.

Unless you’re trying to match some Unpainted pieces to other factory prepaints though, I’d encourage you to do your own thing! With a little time anyone can do an even richer paint job than the factory, a couple extra drybrush steps and some extra contrasting brickwork can add a lot of depth to a Dungeon.

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Re: Painting Guides

Post by NinjaMeesta » Sat Jun 16, 2018 12:54 am

Thanks Jeff!
Having painted KS1, I at least know what I'm in for. I figured the lava red for the pillars as well. But I'm trying to decide if maybe I should try a custom scheme.
I haven't even finished painting all of castles yet. :shock:
My work schedule has gone crazy over the past year. :?

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geekjeff
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Re: Painting Guides

Post by geekjeff » Tue Jun 05, 2018 12:14 am

As for which paints to buy - the original Dungeon quartet for sure: Base Gray, Earth Stone, Olive Dry Brush, Stone Edge Dry Brush. Add to that Deep Lava for the pillars.
Other Pokorny paints you might consider: Base Wood for painting doors and some of the traps. Black and White, for tweaking shades of the other paint colors (white also for the knotwork, on the large Floors and Daises, although you could just use Stone Edge for those.) School Bus for highlights on the torches and the flame jets - although you're not going to need a ton of that, might be better off buying a small bottle of miniatures paint.

Which brings us to the big question: what to do about the metal bits? We don't have metallics available in the Pokorny line, because 8 ounce bottles of those are really only necessary if you're painting Tanks. For these, you should pick out a brand of quality minuatures paints carried by a local gaming or hobby store. Good brands to consider: Reaper, Vallejo, Games Workshop, P3. Stay away from cheap craft acrylics for detail work and especially for metallics - their metallics are crap. Chunky, look flat, and prone to flaking.

Quality model paints will only run you 3-4 bucks per pot or dropper bottle, and a little bit will go a long way. You'll need at least: 1 steel or gunmetal color, 1 antique gold color (as opposed to bright, shiny paladin gold.) You also might want something bronzy/coppery, but you can fake that with an antique gold and a tiny bit of brown/red.

When painting metallics, they pop better with a complimentary base color. Underpaint a light coat of black wherever you're going to use steel or silver colors, underpaint brown wherever you're going to paint gold or copper. I'm sure the real artists around here can tell you the color theory of why this works, I just know that it does work. :lol:

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